It was a long, hot day. We had sweated through another workday in the new life and were tired. A friend said he was going surfing so we rallied, packed the boards in the car, and drove east. I realized that we hadn't been to the beach enough recently even though I had been assuring people I had. Lying to yourself is the worst kind of lying.
Our surf adventures in Montauk are our natural therapy. It's like hitting the "reset" button. The water rushes over you. You rush over the water. The day washes away. You want to capture the moment.
A couple days later it was even hotter. August has shown up, with it's heat and humidity and crowds of people behaving badly. You curse the disrespectful and thank the real folk and go about your business. Time to hit the reset button again so we bounced south to our home break. It was swim o'clock.
My wife said as long as the weather is like this we should swim in the ocean every night after work. We quickly realized the condition of the weather was of little concern, it was about getting to the beach as much as we can in August. A noble challenge to go with our new life.
The next night we swam again, but the phone stayed in the car.
Today we heard there was clean surf so after the necessary day off errands we hit one of the hot spots. We wanted so badly to surf but the current was still strong and our boards weren't right for how the waves were pitching and dumping on the shallow water. We were frustrated at first but got over it. It was another day, and we were taking another swim, so far conquering our August challenge in style. We body surfed and got ounces of sand in our hair but the smiles only grew, the sighs only deepened. Back on land all we had to do was see each others face and that said it all so we just basked in the sun and watched the sea before retreating home.
We worked hard to get here. And are working hard to be here and figure it out. But this is the life.
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