Monday, August 24, 2009

Bill's leftovers at Long Beach

This morning we woke early and headed south to see what was left of the swells created by Hurricane Bill. When we got to the jetty at Lindell we found some substantial surf. With a few people out it seemed like the sets were a solid 6-8', nice and evenly spaced, the wind keeping them clean for the time being. Anxious to get out there myself I shot these pics in a fury before and then in between surf sessions. They're all jumbled by this point.
Of course the pics I took show waves that don't seem as big as they were, but realistically I think any surfer tends to feel that way.
Either way, we knew it was big and burly out there today.

Even the little waves in between the sets had a good push to them and we were all psyched.

As is typical it got a lot more crowded as the afternoon set in, and as forecasted the swells began to slowly weaken. The woman catching the right was totally on her game and definitely making the most of the afternoon.
By the time we wrapped things up I'd say there were at least 25-35 people out at the small weekly break so we hit the road. ...but that's alright, big sets were seen, solid head-high waves were had, a fabulous afternoon followed, and once again life is good, life is good.

Krissy got the best shots of the day so you have to be sure and check out Felis Femina!
This is a video of yours truly she shot during the early afternoon session. I had never seen myself surf before, you know, except for a pic or two dad took when I was 15, so even though the takeoff was a bit wonky I was still giddy as a spazy little schoolboy. God I love surfing.

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